Ask the
Experts

Ask About Your Hair

Real The Real Answers from Debbie Sienkowski
Bohyme® Hair
Marketing/Advertising

Question: What are some new trends in hairstyles?

Answer: This fall the trend is long flowing locks with a natural wave which can be accomplished with a large barrel curling iron, hot rollers or Velcro rollers. Just curl and finger through. For evening the trend seems to be pulled back into a very neat pony tail.

Question: Do people highlight their hair in winter or low-light?

Answer: To keep you hair looking "in season" for winter definitely low-light. You want a natural look, and since most of us tend to spend a lot of time in doors during the winter months, not getting a lot of sunlight ie. natural highlights, low lights are the most natural looking for the cold winter months.

Question: What is the best way to cover gray hair?

Answer: It depends on the degree of gray that you have. While some have only a few here and there others have a bit more. If you don't color your hair and would like to keep with your natural color you can have your stylist color only the roots to match your natural color. For those who do color regularly a simple root touch up works great in between regular visits also. There are over the counter products you can use, but unless this is something you do regularly I would not recommend it. You could end up with Pink hair!!!

Question: What are some hair products you recommend?

Answer: I always recommend salon products as they have a very high concentration and last much longer than over the counter brands. Although over the counter brands have improved greatly. Personally I like the Purology line. But most salon products have lines that you can personalize to your unique hair type and texture.

October 2008

Hair Loss caused by Chemotherapy

Chemotherapy is extremely powerful and can cause anything from thinning hair on the scalp to losing hair all over the body. Chemotherapy attacks the growing cancer cells; unfortunately it will also attack other cells in your body including cells that make your hair grow. About 14 days after starting Chemotherapy treatment is when the experience of thinning hair or hair falling out will occur. This can happen gradually or more quickly with the loss of clumps of hair. The hair loss will continue throughout and continue till about a month after treatment. Whether your hair thins out or you go completely bald is determined by the kind and amount of your treatment.

You might feel that everybody notices your hair loss right away; but as a rule we need to lose approximately 50% of our hair before it become noticeable to others.

The following was taken from an interview conducted with Mette H. Menotti President and Founder of World Hair System Inc. World Hair Systems, Inc. provides Hair, Education, and Supplies for those involved in the hair extension and non-surgical hair replacement industries.
At her own World Hair Institute located in downtown Chicago Mette H. Menotti, David Lamoreux from www.dlhaircompany.com , and the rest of her team specialize in Hair Extensions and creating hair solutions for those who are facing thinning hair and loss of hair.

Mette can be reached at:
77 West Washington Street, Suite 1306, Chicago, IL. 60602
Phone:312.213.4900
Web: www.worldhairinstitute.com, Web: www.worldhairsystem.com
Email: mette@worldhairsystem.com

Question: What causes hair loss during Chemotherapy and can it be prevented?

The Real Answer: If you are one of the many who are facing cancer and are undergoing cancer treatment, the chances that you will lose your hair is significant. Although cancer specialists consider hair loss as an expected “side effect” it can come as a shock to the individual who is living with the hair loss.

Not everyone who develops a cancer will need chemotherapy. The choice of treatment will also vary with different types of cancer.

What kind of medication and the amount will determine if there will be loss of hair. You should talk to your doctor or other specialists who are involved in your treatment about what to expect.

Question: Will the hair grow back after Chemotherapy?

The Real Answer: As you need to recover from the Chemotherapy your hair does as well. Your hair usually starts growing back about a month to 6 weeks after the treatment is stopped. Hair in general grows about ¼ of an inch per month. The hair growing back might have a different texture than it did before treatment; straight hair can return curly or the opposite and the color of the hair can be dull or grey or different than before. This occurs because the cells are not completely controlled yet as for instance the pigment of your hair. This is a normal and temporary side effect caused by the Chemotherapy.

If the treatment you are going to receive is expected to create hair loss then you should know that there unfortunately is no known treatment that can prevent the hair loss caused by chemotherapy.

Question: What is the difference between Chemotherapy and Radiotherapy?

The Real Answer: Chemotherapy is the use of drugs to treat an illness; radiotherapy is the use of radiation in treatment. Strictly speaking chemotherapy is the use of drugs in any illness but in common language we have come to associate it mainly with the drug treatment of cancer.

Radiotherapy is mainly, but not exclusively, used for cancer treatment and not everyone with cancer will need radiotherapy. Radiotherapy uses ionizing radiation to kill cancer cells. Radiation treatment is administered by machines which produce a beam of high energy x-rays. The beam is directed at the site of the cancer.

For some tumors radiotherapy may be given in the form of radioactive pellets or seeds placed close to or into the cancer.

While Chemotherapy can have an ‘all over influence’ on your body Radiotherapy usually affects only the concentrated area that is treated. Therefore it is likely that you will lose your hair if having Radiation to the scalp.

As with Chemotherapy your hair usually grows back after ending your treatment but different amounts of radiation creates different outcome of hair loss and higher doses can, in some cases, cause permanent hair loss. Talk to your doctor or other specialists who are involved in your treatment about what to expect.

Radiotherapy will likely affect the skin of the treated area. The skin of the particular area might become reddish or even look suntanned, and can be as sensitive and look as if you got sunburned. An idea is to invest in lose clothes either made of silk or similar soft material; also your would be better off with bed sheets of similar material. Be careful avoiding sunlight and cold because your skin of the treated area will be very sensitive. You might want to look into scarves or hats for protection.

Question: Are there any precautions or preventions that can be made?

The Real Answer: We know that unfortunately no treatment can guarantee your hair won’t fall out during or after cancer treatment. If your doctor informed you that your hair is likely to thin or fall out due to the treatment it would be good to plan ahead and look into what preventative steps you can take and which options you might have.

Strengthening your hair as much and as far ahead of time of treatment as possible!

Strengthening your hair can be a good investment and might delay the hair loss during treatment but note that if your doctor told you that you are getting strong doses of treatment, the following steps might not be worth your while. Please remember that all suggestions should be discussed with your doctor.

· Avoid Perm, color or other treatments that puts stress to your hair

Blow dry as little as possible even better let your hair air-dry. Any heat to the hair can make it more fragile
If you have medium or long hair do consider getting a shorter or a short haircut. Short hair seems to look more full and it might make it easier for you when the hair loss starts since it will be less noticeable to you as well as others
Make sure your vitamin and mineral intake is as sufficient as possible. Have your doctor take a blood test if necessary
Use Vegan parabene free Hair products
Use a good quality hair mask, such as Vitamin infused Hair treatments

Do try and get all the support and help you can from your family and friends for both research and not at least for moral support. There is a lot of information to achieve about cancer from websites. There are Blogs available where people who either have or are going through cancer write together, give each other ideas and not at least support. Also you could ask your doctor or nurse if they know of any cancer support programs or groups.

Question: What options are available for having normal looking hair during the time of treatment?

The Real Answer: After your doctor tells you what to expect there will be a variety of options you can choose between. Keep in mind, that no matter what you choose it will be a substitute for your normal hair and will take some adjusting on your part.

Choosing a qualified professional Hair Replacement Specialist is the best way to achieve the most satisfying possible result. The Hair Replacement Specialist should be able to discuss the options available and guide you towards your goal.

Hairpieces – machine made

Machine Made Hairpieces are most commonly referred to as Wigs. These wigs are made for people with some hair. They come in a variety of colors and textures and can be made from human hair but most commonly from synthetic fibers. Sizes range from XS to Large. The style of a wig is usually set which means that it is ‘born’ with a specific style that is not interchangeable. The Wig is usually attached to the hair with or without the use of Clips.

Wigs can usually be delivered immediately and can be purchased from Hair Replacement Centers, department stores, and Wig Shops.
Prices are ranging any where from: $70- to $350-
Wigs usually last any where from: 3 to 6 month.

Hairpieces – Pre Custom

Pre Custom Hair Pieces are referred to as cranial prostheses. They are made for people with little to no hair. Cranial prostheses look much more real; first they are hand made, the hair is hand tied in 2 to 3 hairs per knot which is how normal hair grows. The front Hairline has a natural looking hairline.

Cranial prostheses are made to fit children, as well as women and men. Cranial prostheses are made of 100% human hair, a mix of human hair and synthetic fibers, or a blend of different type of fibers. The texture can be coarse to fine, with a variety of color options. A Cranial prosthesis usually has a soft and comfortable fit and can be attached with medical graded tape, medical graded adhesives, medical graded tape combined with adhesive, and or clips alone. A pre custom made hair piece create a variety of styling options and flexibility for the wearer.

The delivery time is 1 to 4 weeks and can be purchased from Hair Replacement Centers and better quality Wig Shops.
Prices are ranging any where from: $600- to about $2000-
Cranial prostheses usually last 9 month to over a year.

Hairpieces - Full Custom

Full Custom Hair pieces are referred to as hand made cranial prostheses. A hand made cranial prosthesis is made for people with little to no hair. They are hand made to completely fit the individual person’s measurements from the cap to the hairs chosen and can therefore completely match your choice of texture and colors. A hand made cranial prosthesis will mostly be made of 100% human better quality hair but can also be made by using higher quality fibers or mixes of human hair and these fibers. They are nearly undetectable and also natural looking with the closest to a perfect fit as humanly possible. They score high in flexibility and styling options.

A hand made cranial prosthesis can be attached with medical graded tape; medical graded adhesives, medical graded tape combined with adhesive, and or clips alone.

The delivery time is 4 to 10 weeks. They and can be purchased from Hair Replacement Centers.
Prices usually ranges any where from: $1500- to about $3500-
Cranial prostheses usually last from 1 to 3 years.

Alternatives to full Cranial Prostheses and Wigs

There are some other alternatives i.e. hair integrations (when you have some hair). Some are similar to a cranial prosthesis but the is hair attached to a hair band making it easy to put on and off and fit to a lower budget choice. Other choices are Turbans and scarves.

If you are undergoing radiation therapy wigs and other hairpieces might feel irritating to your scalp; in this case turbans and scarves would be a good choice and would help you out.

Hair integrations, turbans, and scarves can usually be delivered immediately and can be purchased from Hair Replacement Centers, department stores, and Wig Shops.
Prices are ranging any where from:
For Turbans and Scarves $25- to $50-
Hairpieces attached with Hair band $100- to $200-
Hair integrations $600- to $1800-

Facial hair such as eyebrows, eyelashes and mustaches can be cosmetically enhanced at Hair Replacement Places.

Question: Does my Insurance cover these expenses?

You should check with your insurance company and their “Benefit Booklet” given to you by your insurance carrier. This should list in detail all of the covered expenses under your particular plan. Look for the section “covered expenses” relating to “prosthesis” or “Prosthetic devises” and see if your insurance will cover any or all of your expenses.

Obtain a written prescription provided to you on an actual prescription form.

Request a detailed written letter from your doctor explaining the extent of the (expected) hair loss and the mental distress combined with what you will be or are going through. Ask your doctor to use words as “cranial prosthesis” and “prosthesis”.

If you already are facing hair loss: have a picture taken of yourself without any hair addition thereby establishing that your claim is not for cosmetic purpose.

Make sure that you obtain a sales receipt or invoice with the wording: “Cranial Prosthesis”.

Compose and write a letter that explains the personal emotional effects that hair loss has on your life. Be persuasive in arguing that a cranial prosthesis is just as medically necessary as a prosthetic limb or breast – it replaces a body part – hair.

If you feel comfortable involving your employer then ask him or her to write a letter explaining the importance of having hair on your job!

Other Resources

Many people are suffering from cancer, and have lost their hair because of chemotherapy. Some organizations help giving you information and advice while some also help by getting or giving Hairpieces:

A Child's Voice Foundation: Angel Hair For Kids
www.achildsvoicefoundation.com
150+ wigs since 2005
Wigs are free for recipients.
Target: kids with alopecia, burns or cancer

Locks of Love
http://locksoflove.org/
2000+ hairpieces have been given to kids since 1997
Hairpieces are provided on a sliding scale based on parental income.

Wigs 4 Kids
http://www.wigs4kids.org
120+ hairpieces donated since 2003
Hairpieces are free for qualified kids.

For teens
http://lookgoodfeelbetter.org/audience/teens/program.htm
Look Good…Feel Better for Teens is a hospital-based public service program created by the Personal Care Products Council Foundation and its collaborators to help girls and guys aged 13-17 deal with the appearance, health and social side effects of cancer treatment. Launched in 1996, the program now offers on-site sessions in 16 cities, as well as the 2bMe Web site.

Look Good Feel Better
http://lookgoodfeelbetter.org/
Assisting women

Look Good Feel Better for men
http://www.lookgoodfeelbetterformen.org/
Assisting men

Women, cancer and careers
http://www.cancerandcareers.org/
A website for the working women who are facing cancer, their coworkers, and employers.

Pantene Beautiful Lengths
http://www.beautifullengths.com
2000+ wigs since 2006
Wigs are free for recipients.
Target: women with cancer

September 2008

Question: How do I tell what color is right for me, blonde or brunette?

The Real Answer: It would depend on your skin tone. Although most skin tones are capable of looking great in several hair colors. It's really all about your personality and what you are comfortable with. As an example I am Irish and have Auburn hair. In the photo example you can see a photo shoot for wigs where I am both blond and brunette. Wigs are a great way to get a feel of how you would look in a new color without doing something drastic and making a mistake. Visit your local wig shop and have some fun trying out new colors and styles.

Question: Is there a difference between products sold in a salon versus products sold in a regular store?

The Real Answer: Always look at the ingredient label and you will see that on some "over the counter products" contain Alcohol. This is very drying for the hair. The high end products are also more concentrated and no so watered down and will last longer. Professional lines have natural aromas, oils, etc... on their ingredients list as well. Most professional lines have eliminated Parabenes also. Among the other list of ingredient no-no's are ammonium laurel sulfate, sodium laurel sulfate, or sodium laureth sulfate. These are surfactants. Their purpose is to make everything lather more. Professional grade products usually contain more gentle sulfate ingredients.

Question: I'm over 40. Do I have to cut my hair?

The Real Answer: There are no longer any "rules" for women's age and hair. Short hair over 40 is a matter of opinion. Women around the world are going with what they feel comfortable wearing and many still have their long locks!! Go with what makes you feel confident!!!

August 2008

Question: Are Hair Extensions damaging to your natural hair?

The Real Answer: Extensions should never be damaging to your own natural hair. Here's the how and why. There are many different types of hair extension attachment methods, no one method is safe for all types of hair, just as no one hair cut would be good for every person. The type of method depends on the type, condition and texture of your hair. The single most important thing in searching for a extension specialist is to find a professional who is educated in many types of applications and is aware of which method is safe for your individual hair type. The second thing to consider is the quality of hair. Not all human hair is of the same quality. Human hair is processed in many different ways. Some with acid based chemicals, which compromise the condition of the hair and tangles and mats easily, others with food grade chemicals which keeps the integrity of the cuticle. Time is money and you get what you pay for. Food grade processing methods take much longer than acid based chemicals which cause the product to cost quit a bit more. Always purchase the best hair you can afford, because it is the end product that you are left to deal with on a daily basis. Some companies will tell you that you can leave extensions in for up to 6 months. The truth is that depending on the attachment method they will stay in for up to 6 months; however you should NEVER leave extensions in for longer than 3 months. The reason is that any attachment method starts out with a sufficient amount of hair to support the extension hair. Over time natural shedding occurs. Thus leaving less and less natural hair to support the extension hair, which of course will cause a great amount of breakage. Also a warning to clip in users. Clip in's are meant as a temporary extension method and not daily wear. If you must wear them on a daily basis, be sure to move the clips around frequently, as the clips, even the silicone lined ones cause breakage. Never sleep in clip in extensions.

Question: Are all types of female hair loss permanent?

The Real Answer: No. There are numerous reasons why women lose hair. Some are temporary. Such as hair loss due to hormonal changes during pregnancy, stress and anesthesia during surgery. Also thyroid disease causes hair loss and if treated early can be reversed. Traction Alopecia if caught early can also be reversed. There are many treatments available for women's hair loss. If you feel you are experiencing hair loss the first step is to see a dermatologist and determine the cause.